Weekend Beat: Fans of felines find Tokyo's Yanaka area the purr-fect place to visit

What is the attraction of kittens? Clear eyes, soft paws, melodious meows ... Many cat lovers will find Yanaka in Tokyo's Taito Ward a paradise where cute cats stroll the streets.

Yanaka, a shitamachi (old downtown) area that retains the atmosphere of the Edo Period (1603-1867), is known for its cats.

As the sun sets in the west, cats seem to materialize from nowhere and gather around (1) Yuyake Dandan steps, which descend from near JR Nippori Station to the Yanaka Ginza shopping street.

In nearby alleys, even more cats roam around. The area also boasts quite a few places related to cats and shops that have adopted cat motifs. This is a place where cats and people live together. Welcome to the "town of cats."

(2) The Asakura Choso Museum, dedicated to Japanese sculptor Fumio Asakura (1883-1964), displays 15 of his bronze sculptures of cats. A dedicated cat lover, Asakura spent his entire career making artworks related to cats.

Open 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. and closed Mondays and Fridays (or the following day if Monday or Friday is a public holiday) and Dec. 29-Jan. 3. Admission is 400 yen for adults; 150 yen for elementary and junior high school students. Call the museum at 03-3821-4549.

(3) Eikyuji temple is the final resting place of author Kanagaki Robun (1829-94). On the premises is a stone monument that the cat fanatic had built for his pet felines.

Open daily 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Call the temple at 03-3821-4618.

(4) Nennekoya is a shop that sells original items inspired by cats. Since seven cats "work" here, you might have the chance to see them if they are not out taking a stroll. The Japanese-style room in the back of the shop and the second floor are a cafe that serves coffee, tea and sweets in cat shapes.

Open 11:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Friday-Sunday and public holidays. The cafe menu includes cat-shaped cookies, monaka bean-jam wafer cake, shiruko (red bean soup with a rice cake) and a drink of your choice (1,000 yen). Call the shop at 03-3828-9779.

White cats on the shop awning are the trademark of (5) Neko Machi Cafe 29, on the first floor of Furoneko Art House, a gallery owned by a photographer who specializes in snapping cats. The 29 part of the cafe's name comes from nikukyu, wordplay on the Japanese term for the underside of a paw. Also, the shop's signature bota-mochi dessert (a rice cake covered with red bean paste, 300 yen) is shaped like a cat's paw. Cats named Sola and Hoo greet customers.

Open 11 a.m. to around 8 p.m. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays (or the following day if Monday or Tuesday is a public holiday). Call the cafe at 03-3827-3329.

A popular cat named Ryosuke resides at the cafe (6) Rampo. Ryosuke, who wears glasses made by the owner, has lots of fans among the cafe's customers. The shop is filled with cat figurines and knicknacks, and passages from cat-related literary works decorate the walls.

Open 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Closed Mondays (or the next day if Monday is a public holiday). Call the cafe at 03-3828-9494.

(7) Gallery Nekomachi displays artworks with cat motifs in various genres. The gallery also sells its original Nekomachi Sabure biscuits (315 yen for a pack of two).

Open 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Thursday-Sunday and public holidays. Call the gallery at 03-5815-2293.

(8) Kaiun Yanakado is a shop that specializes in maneki-neko, the traditional Japanese cat-shaped ornaments that decorate houses and shops and are believed to bring in good fortune. The gold maneki-neko statue is the most popular item here. Merchandise is priced at 500 yen and up.

Open 10:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays (except public holidays). Call the shop at 03-3822-2297.

FLIRT WITH CATS AT THESE CAFES

A unique type of cafe is becoming a hit with cat lovers. At cat cafes, visitors can hold and play with cats while having coffee or tea. Because their cats are the main attraction, many of these cafes charge for their stars' time. If you love cats, check out a cat cafe, which is sure to offer a pleasant, relaxing time.

Curl Up Cafe

Fourteen purebred cats, including impressive Russian blues and la perms, welcome guests at this cafe. The owner is delighted to be running a shop that provides her a huge network of cat-loving customers and friends.

Curl Up Cafe is a 1-minute walk from Nishi-Koyama Station on the Tokyu Meguro Line.

Open noon-8 p.m. (11 a.m.-7 p.m. on weekends and public holidays). Closed Mondays (or the next day if Monday is a public holiday).

The charge, which includes a drink, is 900 yen for the first 30 minutes or 1,200 yen for an hour. An additional 500 yen is charged for every 30-minute extension and 800 yen for an hour extension. Children under junior high school age are not admitted. Call the shop at 03-5755-5393.

MORE PLACES TO ENCOUNTER CATS

Neko no Sumika: a 2-minute walk from JR Chigasaki Station in Kanagawa Prefecture. Has more than 20 cats (Maine coon, American curl and others).

Open 2-9 p.m. (noon-9 p.m. Saturdays; noon-8 p.m. Sundays). Closed Wednesdays.

The charge is 600 yen for every 30 minutes for adults, 500 yen for junior and senior high school students and 400 yen for elementary school children and younger. Prices go up 100 yen on weekends and public holidays. An additional 150 yen is charged for every 10-minute extension. Drinks are 300-550 yen. Call the venue at 0467-28-6222.

Cat Cafe Calico: a 1-minute walk from JR Kichijoji Station. Has about 15 cats (American shorthair, ragdoll and others).

Open daily 10 a.m.-10 p.m. The charge is 600 yen for the first 30 minutes and 800 yen for an hour. An additional 120 yen will be charged for every 10-minute extension. Drinks are 150 yen and up. Call the venue at 0422-29-8353.

Neko no Mise: a 2-minute walk from JR Machida Station. Has more than 20 cats (Bengal, mixed breed and others).

Open noon-9 p.m. (until 8 p.m. Sundays and public holidays). Closed Tuesdays.

The charge is 150 yen for every 10 minutes. Drinks are 200-500 yen. Children under junior high school age are not admitted. Call the venue at 042-722-0544.(IHT/Asahi: November 24,2007)