Opinions still simmering over restaurant stars

Neither the hoopla nor the criticism has abated since last year's arrival of the Michelin Guide Tokyo.

Some--especially those listed in the French tire maker's little red guide--praise the book for revitalizing the dining industry. Others--including those not listed--still scoff at the criteria used by the editors.

Now, publishers and even a government Olympic campaign are trying to cash in on the buzz.

When the Michelin Guide Tokyo came out in November 2007, Tokyo was hyped as the "city with the most stars in the world."

With the 2009 edition, which hit shelves last month, Tokyo now equals Paris in terms of number of three-star restaurants.

Both have nine, with Tokyo's consisting of three French restaurants and six Japanese ones, including two that specialize in sushi.

Kojyu, a Japanese restaurant on a back street in Ginza, received a top-rated three stars.

Owner and chef Toru Okuda, 39, is no longer surprised when foreign guests take notes about every move he makes in the open kitchen.

Since the Michelin guide hit the market, foreign diners have increased to account for more than 20 percent of patrons at his restaurant.

Okuda also gets e-mail from as far away as Finland and Italy, asking for opportunities to learn how to prepare soup stock or how to wield a fish knife, for instance.

"These people are really eager to learn Japanese cooking," Okuda said.

The 2008 edition sold 270,000 copies in Japanese and 30,000 copies in English.

The book has had a definite ripple effect, according to some episodes noted in the grapevine.

According to one source: "The president of an upscale resort hotel in the Maldives was in town with 10 chefs from hotels in several countries belonging to the same chain. They visited various Tokyo restaurants with Michelin stars."

Another source says some Japanese restaurants now stock Japanese wine at the request of foreign diners.

Some of the chefs rated by Michelin feel blessed.

"Michelin has long been the object of my adoration and my guiding light," said Yoshinaru Kikuchi, 42, owner-chef at Le Bourguignon, a French restaurant in Nishi-Azabu that won a single star for the first time this year.

"I've always wanted to work at a Michelin-starred restaurant, but it wasn't something I ever aimed at gaining for myself," he added.

Hiromitsu Nozaki, 55, executive chef at Waketokuyama, said his one-star Japanese restaurant in Minami-Azabu has always had many foreign diners.

"We don't feel the number has increased dramatically since we were covered by Michelin," said Nozaki, whose restaurant kept the one-star status this year.

But he said the guide may be useful because few Japanese nowadays really understand Japanese cuisine.

"I wonder if more people now appreciate food based on the information they get (from guides like Michelin)," he added.

Toshiya Kadowaki, 48, owner and chef of Kadowaki, a Japanese restaurant in Azabu-Juban, said his restaurant declined to be rated by Michelin last year. That was because he doubted the value of being evaluated with the same criteria used for other Japanese restaurants, even though each has its own characteristics.

However, he changed his mind this year, and his restaurant received two stars.

"I was advised by people around me (to be rated by Michelin). I think it encourages our employees," he said.

A head chef at a restaurant that lost a star this year had this to say: "Although I don't think we lowered our quality, I'm OK with the result. I intend to continue to work hard with other staff to please our customers.

"Last year, we were inundated with phone calls for reservations. I thought Michelin was good at publicizing restaurants," the chef said.

The Tokyo metropolitan government has also used the Michelin Guide for publicity--in the capital's campaign to host the 2016 Summer Olympics.

During the Beijing Olympics in August, the Tokyo government set up a PR booth in a Beijing hotel that featured a poster of the Michelin Man posing in front of Tokyo Tower.

Its message: "Tokyo: new gourmet capital of the world."

"We hope members of the International Olympic Committee who are connoisseurs will show interest," said a Tokyo official in charge of the Olympic campaign.

However, criticism remains over what some say is the opacity of the rating criteria in the Michelin guide.

Another problem is an imbalance among the types of restaurants covered in the Tokyo guide: There are 41 French restaurants rated, compared with eight Italian restaurants and no yakitori or Korean barbeque eateries.

Jean-Luc Naret, director of the famous red books, had a blunt response to that problem.

"It reflected the restaurant scene in Tokyo. There were no restaurants (in those categories) worthy of stars," he said.

On the heels of the Michelin Guide Tokyo's release last year came several similar restaurant guides mimicking the ranking method and undercover research technique.

In addition, an issue of a men's magazine that carried a story critical of the Michelin guide sold out. A food website appeared that compares customer ratings of restaurants covered by Michelin with the book's evaluations.

"In autumn, we expanded sales space for restaurant guides," said an official at the Maruzen bookstore outlet in Tokyo's Marunouchi district.

The latest edition of "Tokyo Ii Mise Umai Mise" (Delicious restaurants in Tokyo), released in October from Bungeishunju Ltd., saw a 40-percent jump in sales from a year ago.

The guide, started 41 years ago by haiku poet Kenkichi Kusumoto and others, features short descriptions of each restaurant and maps. Unlike Michelin Guide Tokyo, it has no glossy color photos.

Yasuo Terui, editor in chief of "Tokyo Ii Mise Umai Mise," is pleased with the arrival of the Michelin guide. "Public interest in restaurant guides as a whole is on the increase (thanks to Michelin)," he said.

The cover of his book this year, however, contains a provocative message: "French people don't understand."

Yoshiki Tsuji, president of Tsuji Culinary Institute, also welcomes the Michelin Guide Tokyo.

"What has evolved in Tokyo (since its arrival) is a business to make use of the Michelin brand," Tsuji said. "There may be errors in assessments of individual restaurants, but no other vehicle has revitalized the restaurant business as much."

The Michelin guides were extended to cover New York in 2005, San Francisco in 2006, and Los Angeles and Las Vegas in 2007. This month, Michelin introduced its Hong Kong and Macao edition.(IHT/Asahi: December 26,2008)