Some people do it for the snazzy stampsheet, others for the pleasant traipse around town. True believers do it seeking health and wealth in the year ahead, but whatever the motivation, tours of the Shichifukujin-the seven deities of good fortune-keep shrines and temples hopping during the first few weeks of January, as believers and nonbelievers alike make pilgrimages in hopes of having an auspicious, or at least entertaining, start to the New Year.

The origins of the Shichifukujin-six gods and one goddess-can be traced to religious traditions from China, India and Japan. Because the Shichifukujin have roots in several religions, the annual pilgrimage is popular among people of various religious persuasions, says Ryujun Kanda, a priest at Gokokuin temple in Tokyo's Yanaka district. More than 20,000 people visit the area's temples each year from Jan. 1 through Jan. 15, when icons of the deities are on display at all save Bentendo.

The Shichifukujin became popular during the 16th and 17th centuries. Over time, the tradition of making an annual pilgrimage to the seven deities has become increasingly organized and accessible to the public. Shichifukujin tours can be found throughout Japan. In Tokyo alone, there are more than 20 from which to choose.

One of the modern activities associated with the pilgrimages is the collecting of stamps from each temple or shrine on a kinen-shikishi, or stampsheet. For the Yanaka tour, the oldest in Tokyo, this is a piece of washi, or traditional rice paper, with images of the seven deities taken from a woodblock print.

Though there is no set order for visiting the temples, stampsheets are available for 1,000 yen at Togakuji and Bentendo, making either one of these an appropriate starting point. Each temple along the route will stamp your sheet for 200 yen.

A convenient way to make the rounds is to begin at Tabata Station, on the JR Yamanote Line, and meander through some of the most picturesque old neighborhoods of Tokyo before ending in Ueno Park. Although the Shichifukujin walking route normally takes about two hours, the scenic and culinary attractions of Yanaka and its adjacent districts are bound to make you forget about the clock. Whatever your fancy, from a view of Mount Fuji to Swiss coffee-served in a mini-chalet!-you can find it along the way.

The first temple on the tour, Togakuji (on the map; 03-3821-1031), houses the icon of Fukurokuju, the god of happiness, wealth and longevity. Before you even get inside to see Fukurokuju, the two Buddhist stone statues in front of the shrine, covered with bits of red paper, will catch your eye. The statues, dating back to 1642, are believed to ease the illnesses of those who affix red paper on the parts of the statues that correspond to their ills.

The temple itself, which was built in the Kanda area and moved several times before settling into its current location in Tabata in 1596, dates back to the Muromachi Period (1338-1573). The Fukurokuju statue, which is on display only during the fortnight of the Yanaka Shichifukujin tour, is a wise-looking fellow, often depicted with a crane-a symbol of long life-and a staff. His bald, egg-shaped head and full white beard complete the picture. Fukurokuju is sought out by those who wish to live to a ripe old age.

After paying your respects to Fukurokuju and securing your stampsheet and stamp, wind your way toward Seiunji temple (03-3821-4241), home to the god of prosperity, Ebisu. This traditional Japanese deity holds a sea bream in one hand and a fishing rod in the other, symbolizing commerce, fishing and safe voyage.

Shushoin temple (03-3823-0873) is a short walk from Seiunji. Shushoin, a much more modern structure, houses Hotei, the god of contentment. The rose-colored wall surrounding the temple is full of sunny images of the god, who is based on a Chinese Zen monk thought to be an incarnation of the Bodhisattva Maitreya. All along the wall, there are depictions of the merry deity, surrounded by buzzing bees, laughing children and frolicking puppies.

The two possible routes to the next temple, Tennoji, both beg for exploration. If you choose the route to the east, you can catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji (weather permitting, of course), followed by a cup of coffee and a snack at the Chalet Swiss-Mini (03-3822-6033, closed Mondays and Dec. 27-Jan. 3). Meat and cheese fondue is available, if reservations are made at least two days in advance.

If you choose the route that leads you up the stairs of quaint Yanaka-Ginza street, it's worth a small detour to Midoriya (03-3828-1746, closed Jan. 1), a bamboo sculpture shop that's been in the same family of artists for three generations.

The holiday season keeps the shop busy, says owner Suigetsu Buseki, as it's a prime spot to pick up a carving of a takara-bune, the treasure boat on which the Shichifukujin travel. It is believed that if you go to sleep with a picture of the boat underneath your pillow on New Year's Day, your first dream of the year will be a lucky one.

Following one of the smaller streets off of the main drag will take you to Tanpyotei (03-3821-5039, closed Wednesdays and Dec. 29-Jan. 5), a small restaurant with exquisite yet reasonable lunch options. Fresh fish and pleasing presentation are the specialties here, and boxed bento lunches can be ordered one day in advance.

Hanahenro (03-3822-6387, closed Mondays and Dec. 27-Jan. 4) is another nice teahouse to stop in for a bit of refreshment. The cozy spot, marked by its cheery orange awnings, offers afternoon tea, as well as several healthy lunch choices.

The route to Tennoji temple (03-3821-4474) takes you through Yanaka cemetery. The temple, on the edge of the cemetery, has its origins in the late Kamakura Period (1192-1333) and is home to the icon of Bishamonten, a mighty, armor-clad god of Indian origin who is believed to bring good fortune and offer protection, both to the poor and to those who are worthy.

Winding back through Yanaka cemetery, follow the route to Choanji temple (03-3828-1094), where you can pay your respects to Jurojin, the god of longevity. This Chinese deity's long white beard and staff give him an air of wisdom and gentleness, and a deer, also representing long life, is often at his side.

Gokokuin temple (03-3821-3906), founded in 1634 and rebuilt in 1722, is the next stop. Its resident deity is Daikokuten, originally the Indian god of wealth and bountiful harvests, who is often depicted with a mallet in one hand and a bag of treasure in the other.

The last stop of Yanaka's Shichifukujin tour brings you to Ueno Park to visit Benzaiten, goddess of music, eloquence and water. Bentendo temple (03-3821-4638) is a happy abode for the esteemed goddess, located as it is on a small island in the middle of the lotus-filled waters of Shinobazu pond, and near the intellectual activity of the Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music. The temple was founded in the mid-17th century and rebuilt in 1958. Ueno Park draws visitors year-round and is renowned as a prime spot for viewing cherry blossoms in the spring.

Even if the Shichifukujin tour isn't a guarantee of wealth and health in the coming year, an afternoon spent meandering the streets of Yanaka is a sure way to get the New Year off to a good start. From cherry blossoms to cheery buddhas, this tour is an auspicious one, indeed.(IHT/Asahi: December 24,2004)