大自然たっぷりの癒しの島

By Itxaso Zuñiga, Freelance Photographer

カイルア湾に入港する船

　When I first landed in Kona, on the Big Island of Hawaii, the first thing that surprised me was the bright daylight and wide expanse of sky.

　On the Big Island, the wind, the sun, the rain and the waves seem stronger, and the clouds, the ocean and the rainbows seem closer than anywhere else. You feel next to nature wherever you go.

　Those first days on the Big Island, we were going to drive along the sunny southwest coast on Highway 11 from Kona to Kau district, to the southernmost point of the island.

　Kailua-Kona is one of the two large population centers on the Big Island, and it is where we first landed and started our road trip. It is a small town ---- basically oriented to tourism ---- but with small alleys on the side of the main road that lead you to colorful houses, restaurants and shops. We had our first Hawaiian meal there, and we also took the opportunity to prepare for the trip.

キャプテン・クックの元へ

　Growing up, I remember watching a BBC Television series about the adventures of the English explorer Captain James Cook, the first European to land on Hawaii during the 18th century. I loved that true-story TV series, so, the first place we had to visit on the Big Island was the site where Cook was killed in 1779.From Captain Cook Village, less than 20 kilometers south of Kailua-Kona, we took the trail down to Kealakekua Bay. I was glad we had decided to wait until early morning to start the hike because it was very steep and dry, there was hardly any shade and the sun soon started to shine bright and hot.

　Soon after we started the hike, we saw the bay on the bottom and recognized the palm trees around it. The cliffs were rough, there was no stretch of beach nearby ---- only rocks and a brushy coastline. I had always imagined Cook being killed as he was running on the beach trying to escape from angry villagers that had discovered he was not the reincarnation of the Polynesian god Lono; instead he died in a rough rocky area with steep cliffs.

　A few kilometers south from where Cook died, is one of the oldest Polynesian temples on the island. Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park means place of refuge or sanctuary. In ancient Hawaii, for those who had broken the strict kapu (sacred laws), reaching this place was the last opportunity for absolution. The area includes an ancient heiau (temple) where the royal chiefs established their residences, the place of refuge for kapu breakers and a great wall that protects the entire area.

　Back at our car, we discovered a gecko, a colorful and small lizard, behind the license plate. It was a bright green with pink, purple and blue dots. The gecko didn’t try to hide; it only sat there looking at us. In Polynesian homes, geckos are sometimes seen on the ceilings, and locals say they are actually ancient family spirits stopping by for a visit.

空にかかるのは美しい虹

　That afternoon we camped near Hookena County Beach Park, which has a black sand beach protected by cliffs in a beautiful location. Some kids were playing and surfing in the sea when it started to rain, and an incredible rainbow from the mountains to the ocean appeared, lasting until the rain stopped. Back then, I didn’t know, but this was going to be the first rainbow of many that I would see here. Without a doubt, Hawaii is where I have glimpsed the most beautiful rainbows in the world.

　The next morning, to our surprise, we discovered the gecko again on our car door. We continued driving south, keeping the Mauna Loa mountain, the second highest point in Hawaii (4,170 meters), always on the left side while on the right we had the Pacific Ocean. We had the gecko along to keep us company, making us aware of his presence by turning up time to time on our side window, as if asking us where we were going.

　After the Kahuku Ranch we left Highway 11 and turned on South Point Road to Ka Lae, the southernmost point of the island and also of the United States. A strong wind started blowing, and we soon saw a power-producing windmill farm. The area is surrounded by pastureland and red cliffs leading to the southern tip. It is said that this is where the Polynesians coming from Tahiti first landed on the Big Island, and temple ruins and other evidence have been found in the area.

　The vast, open Pacific Ocean was in front of us, a very strong wind was blowing from the south and the waves were crashing against the cliffs. We saw the gecko protected from the wind in a crevice in our car, its constant companionship making us feel that an ancient Hawaiian spirit was guiding us along our journey.