新しい時代の風を感じて

　対立や混乱、あらゆる困難が世界中を重く包み込む昨今にあって、最近のミャンマーの民主化への動きと、同国と欧米諸国との関係が急速に改善している状況は、私たちを明るい気持ちにさせてくれる数少ないニュースのひとつではないでしょうか。

　同国では、1960年代から事実上の軍事独裁政権が続き、様々な粛清が行われてきました。2007年に日本人ジャーナリスト長井健司氏が、反政府デモの取材の最中（さなか）に銃弾に倒れた事件は、その際のショッキングな映像と共に多くの人々の記憶に残っていることでしょう。

　しかし同年、軍出身で現大統領のテインセイン氏の首相就任以来、軍政主導の政治改革が開始されました。新憲法により二院制の連邦議会創設、大量の政治犯の釈放、民主化運動の旗手であるアウンサンスーチー氏の自宅軟禁解除、彼女が率いる国民民主連盟（NLD）の復権、そして今年4月のミャンマー連邦議会補欠選挙でのNLDの圧勝、アウンサンスーチー氏の欧州歴訪…。目を見張る進展を見せています。

　ヤンゴンに入る前、旅の筆者は、人々が長い軍事政権下で自己防衛のために心を固く閉ざしてしまっているのではないかと懸念していました。しかし実際に出会ったのは、驚くほど正直な人々と、輝く笑顔の子どもたちでした。そして柔らかく風にたなびく色の波が、人々を包みこんでいました。

　いつもアウンサンスーチー氏の髪を飾っている花は、愛や美、輝き、新鮮さ、強さ、尊敬など、善なるイメージを喚起します。彼女の結い髪を揺らす風が、ミャンマーに新しい時代の到来を告げる爽やかな風でありますように。（鈴）

　I spent one week in Yangon and surrounding townships. The mission was to understand Myanmar from the results of history, natural disaster, violence and a quickly changing political environment. I remember thinking en route from Bangkok that these people, although Buddhist, might seem hardened to life. Like in Tibet - very beautiful people with open hearts, however the most emotionally guarded group I have ever known. In Tibet, also a Buddhist country, the political environment has hardened hearts and I could feel it when I was there.

　So, I spent my days in Yangon and surrounding areas. I met families and played with children in monasteries, nunneries and orphanages. These children, despite the political past of their country, wear bright smiles that could light up the night. They are the future of Myanmar and with a new, sounder government they will hopefully be able to use their innate zest for living to create a more stable environment for their own children.

　Traveling to Myanmar feels akin to traveling back in time hundreds of years in some ways. One stark instance is the lack of electronic payment countrywide. Even at the airport or big hotels they only accept cash. Another instance is the Internet, which might as well be nonexistent. Yangon has WiFi but I believe the entire city only has two different servers, some say one.

　To travel to Myanmar there are comforts one simply has to put aside. But, the kindness of people make forgetting these comforts quite easy.

　And, the texture makes for incredible pictures: texture of withered buildings mixed with the soft dried thanakha on women's faces and the skin of monks, growing old.

　Gentle people make simple jokes in Myanmar. My favorite word in Myanmar conversation is "han-gry"- a common play on words literally meaning hungry and angry. To me, this is a universal and beautiful term. I think any person in any culture knows what it is to feel hungry and thus become angry.

風と色彩と光と影と

　The food, for the most part, is clean, tasty and cheap. I dined on fresh-caught fish and multi-course meals for the equivalent of $10 (800 yen).

　When I think about Myanmar I think about colors. Not the vibrant palette of shades I find in India, not the hearty reds at Itsukushima shrine on Miyajima island, off the coast of Hiroshima Prefecture, and not white, known for the purity of heart in Tibet. I think about gentle, moving colors. Fabrics that place people as monks or nuns. Deep maroon overlaying yellow. Monks starting from 2-years-old to elderly. I think about the folds of pink fabric, flowing and waving in the breeze on drying lines after being hand-washed outside of a nunnery.

　I think about the dramatic way the light shines through the folds of fabric and catches the sides of soft faces. Bald heads with a drip of sweat and dull shine in scalding heat still have welcoming faces. When I think about Yangon I think about bursts of colors, but also a city dulled with dust and decay, haunted by a violent history.

　I wanted to understand Myanmar and to do this I felt it was more important to understand the results of recent history than vacation spots. I wanted to have a foothold to begin to understand the emotional and demographic makeup of the people who would take the country forward: the children, all too often orphan children.

　The peoples of Myanmar are different. They remain honest. Although the country has faced violence, it is safe to walk around alone at night. People respect one another's space and count back proper change. I was surprised how honest people were.

　To travelers curious about this long-closed country, I encourage them to visit. Before I left for Myanmar many people told me to "be safe." However, I felt incredibly safe there. My advice is to plan your trip early; with open borders for tourists but sanctions on infrastructure, the country lacks enough hotels and hostels to host the flood of incoming tourists. While food and travel are cheap, hotels are expensive and it is best to book early. And, bring cash because there is simply no other way to pay there.