環境破壊の影も忍び寄る美しい観光の島

　どこを撮影してもそのまま絵はがきになりそうな、透き通った海、優雅な弧を描く白い砂浜、涼しげな影を落とすヤシの並木。マレー半島東海岸沿岸の海洋保護区に点在する島々が、観光客の注目を集めています。今回の旅先であるペルヘンティアン島は、ベサール島、クチル島の大小ふたつの島からなり、共に観光客に人気です。

　観光が盛んになると必ず持ち上がるのが、地域経済の構造変化とそれに伴う地域社会や文化の変化、そして環境破壊の問題です。ここペルヘンティアンも例外ではなく、従来の小規模な漁業の島は観光の島に転換し、かつての漁師の多くは観光客をボートで運ぶ船頭に転身しました。海洋公園に指定されているため、開発はある程度抑制されているかもしれません。しかし、より多くの電気、より多くの石油、より多くの食品が島で消費されるようになり、自然環境に負担を強いています。筆者は、ウミガメの卵の密漁が横行することも報告しています。また一部では、孵化（ふか）したウミガメを観光客に販売している場所もあるとか。

　こうした中、マレーシア内外で、貴重なペルヘンティアンの環境や野生生物を守ろうと、様々なボランティアの保護活動やエコツアーの推奨、地域文化の体験や継承といった草の根運動が盛り上がってきました。また、エコツアーに勝機を見いだす観光ビジネスも、環境や地域社会への影響に対する配慮をうたいます。イメージ向上を狙う企業が、サンゴ礁の保護活動に乗り出してもいます。

　こうした動きは果たして、今後大きな成果を見ることができるでしょうか。地場産業と観光業の両立や、観光と環境保全の両立という、私たち皆が直面する課題に、この熱帯の小さな双子の島も取り組み始めています。（鈴）

　It was a memorable walk crossing Perhentian big island, Besar, through lush jungle. Up hill and down, I was to reach Flora Bay, a peaceful horseshoe bay with a couple of low-key bungalow resorts.

　I crossed streams, listened to a distant clamor as a bird or monkey moved unseen from tree to tree amid the dense growth beyond the trail. I dripped in sweat. Nearer the destination, the jungle gave way to a field of long grass, inducing a feeling of claustrophobia.

　Once free, emerging amid civilization at the bungalows, my presence startled a juvenile monitor lizard. It scuttled for safety into an adjacent pond. With barely time to recover from the surprise, and with no time to run, another monitor, a two-meter-long adult, passed in the same direction barely a step away from my feet.

　Be prepared for the unexpected in Perhentian.

　Many visitors to the Perhentians never venture beyond the white sandy beaches, and if they do it's only into the water. With good reason much of the focus on the islands is aquatic. The water is tropical and warm, with translucent aquamarine bays, a perfect habitat for an array of colorful marine life, ideal for snorkeling, kayaking and diving.

　"It's a wonderful place to stay awhile," says Tom Boxler, chief scuba instructor at Perhentian Island Resort. "It's peaceful, with friendly people and always warm," says the laid-back Californian.

　Geographically, the Perhentians lie about 18 kilometers off the northeast coast of Malaysia in the South China Sea. Jet boats from the fishing town of Kuala Besut operate daily to the islands. Seasonally, the best time to visit is between March and October when the weather is dryer. Monsoons mean heavy rain; choppy waters and murky seas hamper the rest of the year.

　The islands comprise Perhentian Kecil (small), Perhentian Besar (large) and three uninhabited smaller isles north of Kecil. All form a protected marine park. Traditionally, the islands were used as a stopover by seafaring traders from Bangkok down the Malaysian coast: hence the name Perhentian, which in Malay means "stopping point."

　Until they became an attraction for tourists two decades ago, the Perhentians were home to generations of fisherman. They fished in local waters and sold their catch to mainlanders.

　Nowadays, the fishing industry barely survives, though a number of fishermen now profit from tourism as water taxi operators. There's only one way to get between the islands: by water. And with few inland trails, getting between beaches means paying a boatman for a ride.

　Kecil is a focus for the backpacker crowd. Here, on the island's west coast, Coral Bay offers a sunset view from the beach and inexpensive beachside restaurants. A paved trail links it to Long Beach on the eastern shore where a few bars and a host of chalets and bungalows cater to the energetic party people.

生態系破壊の兆しと保護の努力

　A jungle trail following the shoreline south from Coral Bay leads to secluded Mira beach. The half-hour trek will no doubt include friendly run-ins with monitors as the reptiles bask on the warm paved trail.

　In contrast, Perhentian Besar tends to be popular with couples and families. A little quieter, it is home to a few natives Kecil lacks. It's the only island hosting simians.

　The tree dwelling dusky leaf monkeys, sporting white rings around their eyes, congregate in extended family groups. Vegetarians, they eat mostly leaves and unripened fruit. Most mornings I would find one such gang, their tails flopping vertically downward, sitting among the upper foliage of the breadfruit trees near my chalet.

　The jungle is home to a diverse flora and fauna. Aside from monitors and monkeys, you'll see bats, flying squirrels, the occasional snake and an array of alarming insect life - a harmless but sizable millipede being one of my surprise encounters.

　Around Besar, motorboat snorkeling tours buzz the beaches throughout the day. The rapid-fire tours offer the chance for visitors to experience the islands underwater domain, tour coral reefs swarming with flamboyantly colored fish, follow turtles and the occasional encounter with blacktip sharks.

　The waters off the western shore of Besar host perhaps its most prized asset - hawksbill turtles. From May until August beaches on Besar are used by the migratory turtles for nesting. In recent years the numbers of turtles nesting on Perhentian have dropped sharply. The reasons are clear.

　"There are too many petrol-powered motorboats leaking pollutants into the waters," says Tom. Though for divers, the deeper offshore reefs offer unblemished corals and marine life, the over-active shorelines are deterring turtles.

　Poaching of turtle eggs has been widespread recently, but the department of fisheries has instigated a seasonal turtle hatchery. Additionally a number of volunteer groups, including the non-profit Help Our Penyu, are helping to protect the turtles nesting areas and returning the islands waters back to paradise.