中世の面影を残すバルト海の真珠

　バルト海に面したエストニアの首都タリンには、中世の城壁や教会などが多く残り、世界遺産にも登録されています。タリンはエストニア語で「デンマーク人の城」の意味。13世紀にデンマーク人がエストニア人の砦（とりで）を占拠して築いた城を中心に発展。その後、ハンザ同盟に加盟して、貿易中継の港町として栄えました。旧ソ連に占領され、閉ざされた地方都市だった時代もありましたが、1991年に独立。2004年には欧州連合（EU）加盟を果たし、再びかつてのにぎわいを取り戻しました。

　約2.5キロの城壁に囲まれた旧市街（Vanalinn）には歴史的な見どころが満載。聖オレフ教会の塔は旧市街で最も高い124メートルを誇ります。15世紀には159メートルもあったとされ、当時は「世界一高い塔」と言われていたとか。かつて支配者や貴族らが暮らした山の手（Toompea）には現在も政府の一部が入るトームペア城をはじめ、大聖堂など荘厳な建物が集まります。一方、下町の中心、ラエコヤ広場には夏場はレストランのテラス席が並び、筆者もおススメのスポットのようです。

　しかし、エストニアの魅力は歴史だけにとどまりません。インターネット電話「スカイプ」を生みだしたIT大国です。紙の文書を原則としてなくした電子政府でも知られ、選挙では自宅や職場からインターネット投票ができます。筆者によると、ほとんどのカフェやバーでWiFi（無線LAN）が使えるそう。モダンなデザインの建物も多く、新旧がほど良く融合しています。（あ）

　In northern Europe there is a pearl little known by travelers, Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. With a beauty similar to Prague, Budapest or Dubrovnik, Tallinn would be the perfect setting for a children's story with its little squares filled with colorful houses, cobbled streets, palaces and churches with bell towers that look like they are made of chocolate.

　Yet, Tallinn is not simply another museum-like European city - the birthplace of Skype, it is listed as one of the top digital cities in the world.

　Vanalinn, its historic center, is protected by a spectacular wall and divided into two areas: Upper Town or Toompea, where the nobility once lived and Lower Town, where the rest of the population resided. While there is no shortage of places to explore in the lower city, the most popular is Town Hall Square, the heart of the 800-year-old Old Town. It is an ideal place for a visitor to take the pulse of Tallinn.

　Seats at the many outdoor bars are usually in high demand for viewing the passing theater of life. The square has on its south side the oldest pharmacy in Europe, dating from 1422. Before leaving the square, you should climb Town Hall's great tower to enjoy a spectacular view over the rooftops of the city.

聖オレフ教会の塔は　かつて高さ世界一とも

　Lower Town also has many churches worth a visit, including the Holy Spirit, St. Nicholas' and St. Olaf's. The latter is one of the tallest medieval buildings in Europe and was once the tallest structure in the world.

　St. Catherine's alley is perhaps the most picturesque place in the city, a charming passage covered by several beautiful arches. The alley houses restaurants and a guild of craftsmen who still use ancestral methods.

　In the noble area, Toompea, one finds the essence of Vanalinn. Here is Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral. Completed in 1900, when Estonia was part of tsarist Russia, it was built to demonstrate the overwhelming power of the Russian Empire.

　The area also includes the Cathedral of Santa Maria and Toompea Castle, the current seat of government of Estonia. Upper Town also provides travelers with two exceptional spots to contemplate the city, the Kohtuotsa and Patkuli viewing platforms. Go at sunset when the sky is at its best and most tourists have left for their hotels.

　The Kohtuotsa platform offers a panoramic view of the historic center, with Tallinn's modern buildings in the background. But Patkuli provides the best overall view. It comes as no surprise that many of the postcards and tourist brochures feature a picture from this spot.

最先端の技術や　デザインも融合する街

　Past and present are combined masterfully in Tallinn. The city breathes a modern spirit, and shops and restaurants feature innovative designs. Almost all the bars and cafes in the city offer free WiFi for customers.

　A few steps from the historic center, the old industrial Rotermann Quarter has been beautifully transformed into the most active shopping area in the city. It is a favorite of Tallinn residents looking to pick up the latest fashions, dine out or hit a few pubs. Loovala, a collective of artists selling quality art at reasonable prices, is also located in the Rotermann Quarter.

　Time permitting, take a trip outside the city center to the Kadriorg district, home to Kadriorg Palace, a magnificent baroque building erected by Russia's Peter the Great for his wife Catherine I in 1718. Designed by architect Niccolo Michetti, it houses a museum with paintings by German, Italian and Russian masters, from the 16th to 18th centuries.

　Nearby is the Kadriorg Event Center, also known as the Talinn Song Festival Grounds. Every five years it is the venue for the Estonian Song and Dance Celebration, drawing hundreds of thousands of spectators and performers. In 1988, Estonians protested Soviet occupation here with the Singing Revolution, a huge musical demonstration that put the tiny nation on the road to freedom.

　The star of Kadriorg is the Kumu, a modern museum displaying the works of Estonian artists. There are temporary exhibitions of avantgarde artists and permanent exhibitions of established artists.

　For more than two decades, Estonians have struggled to present their historical and cultural heritage to the world, from the perspective of an independent and free people. There has never been a better time to discover Estonia, a country that for many is virtually unknown, and Tallinn is the gateway, the ideal place to start.