路地裏にも 古くからの文明の香り 時代を凝縮した空間

By Joseph A. Lieberman, Photojournalist

　山深いネパールの市場は、アジアの長い文明の香りを残す豊かなスポット。瞳の輝く子供たちに囲まれて値段の交渉を楽しむと時間を忘れるようです。

　Time does not count for a whole lot in Nepal. The sights you see there could be illustrations of ancient legends; the people, characters out of historic scrolls; and the aromas, sounds and tastes, a confirmation that all you've ever heard concerning the wonders of Nepal is true and not about to change soon.

　The mountain bazaars of Katmandu take all of this diversity and blend it with the essence of several Himalayan cultures. With prices so low as to be inconsequential, the biggest problem is trying NOT to buy too many items.

　Meeta Khadka, a hotel manager, took the time to explain the layout within and around Katmandu.

　"There are three 'ancient cities,' " he told me, "and each has its own marketplace. Many are near or even within temple grounds, for religion and markets interface here in several ways."

　When I asked how, Meeta replied, "Temples attract both worshippers and tourists, and put them in a good mood, perhaps a buying mood. And then, the peddlers themselves pray for good fortune."

　 That made sense, and I set out to have a look for myself. The term "Durbar Square" might translate as "old city center" because each of the ancient districts has one. "The closest is within southeast Katmandu proper," Meeta had advised me, "another is a bike ride away in Patan, and the third is reached by electric trolley bus in Bhaktapur, only an hour distant."

　My favorite of the three is Bhaktapur because it is truly a photographer's paradise. Its temples, towers, statues, palaces and pagodas span the architecture of centuries. With this dramatic interplay of epochs as a backdrop, gracious sari-clad women, raucous street vendors, countless barefoot children, trishaw drivers, rampant livestock and curly-bearded, snake-charming Sadhu holy men complete the picture.

　The main attraction is, of course, the goods that are for sale. In Katmandu's fabulous bazaars, visitors find a startling array of items - some pieces look as if they were plucked from museum display cases. Folk art molded by centuries of tradition finds its expression in handcrafted works of metal, porcelain, cloth, beads, jewels, wood and bone.

　Alongside flashing curved daggers, prayer wheels, brass cymbals and horse stirrups, I found sheep skulls splendidly coated with polished tin, copper and colored-stone decorations. Some exotic pieces had traveled the length of the Silk Road while others had crossed the heights of the Himalayas from neighboring Tibet.

　While a few items are obviously manufactured with the tourist trade in mind, the majority are authentic creations of artisans, weavers and craftsmen. From the gilded pots of metalsmiths to the aromatic spices that fill the market with intriguing scents, everything has a negotiable price that is determined only by the shrewdness and persistence of the players.

　"Bargaining is a game that two must play, so don't give up too easily," I was told by Bhagabat, a merchant who encouraged me to haggle longer over prices. "Even a poor trader with a clever tongue can barter his way upward," he added.

　Dodging in and around the market stalls, little girls on child-care duty for their younger siblings carry babies on their small backs. I asked a shopkeeper named Sudhan Suwal why all females, even infants, wear black eyeliner. Sudhan answered, "It makes their eyes look even bigger when they ask you for candy or small change, as they invariably will do."

　Sudhan and other adults advised me against giving such gifts, but the appeal of these street kids is hard to resist. In a quieter square, three small children came over for the customary handout. No problem, I thought, as I had exactly three pieces of candy left in my pocket.

　I had barely finished handing them over, when I heard a loud noise and I looked up to see a dozen more children suddenly pouring into the square, all of them with hands open. Lesson learned. Next time, bring more useful gifts such as pencils and pens.

　Leaving Katmandu with a suitcase filled with goods from the bazaars, I knew it might be years before I'd get a chance to visit again. With the items I purchased, I can keep pieces of Nepal for the rest of my life. Better still are the memories I preserved.

• Time...lot　時間はさほど重要でない
• With...inconsequential　物価が非常に安いので気にしなくてすむが
• peddlers...fortune　（店の）売り子が自分たちの幸運を祈る
• set...myself　私も（お寺を）見に出かけた
• With...backdrop　背景として（いくつかの）時代がこうして劇的に交錯しているので
• sari-clad women　サリーを着た女性
• rampant livestock　元気な家畜
• fabulous bazaars　素晴らしい商店街（バザール）
• startling...items　目を見張るような商品数
• as...cases　博物館の陳列ケースから抜き取ってきたような
• horse stirrups　（馬具の）あぶみ
• authentic...craftsmen　職人、織工、工芸家による本物の作品
• From...scents　金属細工師が作った金箔（きんぱく）を施したつぼから市場を魅力的な香りで満たすスパイスの芳香まで
• shrewdness　そつのなさ
• haggle...prices　しつこく値切る
• barter...upward　交渉で値段をつり上げる
• wear...eyeliner　黒のアイラインを引いている
• Better...preserved.　さらによいことは、忘れがたい思い出ができたことだった